Fjordland for the Day: A Day Trip from Haines to Juneau

For those traveling the road system through the Yukon or interior Alaska, Southeast often seems just out of reach. Many coastal communities here—including Juneau—require a flight or ferry to access. But Haines offers something unique: a direct link to the upper Inside Passage without needing to park the RV long-term or rework an itinerary.

I recently joined Alaska Fjordlines’ Fjord Express from Haines to Juneau—a round-trip day cruise that opens up the fjordland for those of us who typically explore by road. It’s a smooth, scenic way to experience the coastal side of Alaska in just a day, with wildlife views, a warm meal, and time to roam Alaska’s capital before heading back.

The Start of the Journey

The day began at the Haines Small Boat Harbor, where Allison—owner of Alaska Fjordlines—welcomed us at the top of the ramp. She shared a bit of local color while checking us in, including the surprising fact that over 100 fishing vessels use the harbor throughout the season. On this particular morning, it was quiet. Most of the fleet was out working an opener, which meant we’d likely catch glimpses of them from the water later in the day.

We boarded the Fjordland and were greeted by Captain Glen and deckhand Rio—both professional, easygoing, and clearly knowledgeable. I chose to sit on the back deck with a few other passengers. Most opted for the cozy indoor cabin, but the view outside was worth the crisp air and extra layers.

The water was calm as we made our way south, and bald eagles were a constant presence—perched high in trees along the shoreline, some settled into visible nests. Sea lions barked from rocky outcrops in their usual noisy clusters. Harbor seals showed themselves sporadically throughout the day, but were more easily spotted on the return—lounging on buoys as we left Auke Bay in the late afternoon, and again near the Eldred Rock Lighthouse. Humpback whales appeared at intervals, some offering distant blows, while others stayed with us longer—bubbling, spinning, and diving deep with wide-open mouths on display.

Rio served coffee and tea alongside a fresh local blueberry muffin and apple—simple, but appreciated. The calm of the journey was part of the charm: no rush, no itinerary to manage, just the slow unfolding of the fjords.

From Dock to Downtown

After about 2.5 hours on the water, we docked at Auke Bay. A motor coach waited at the ramp. The first stop was the Juneau airport to drop off a few travelers using the Fjord Express as a one-way scenic route. After that, the rest of us continued into downtown Juneau.

With a walking map in hand, I wandered solo for the afternoon. Downtown was lively with cruise ship visitors, but it was easy to find space for quiet observation. I found my way to a harborfront bar and ordered a light, late lunch—a deconstructed sushi plate paired with a wild berry cocktail made with a local spirit. The window view overlooked the harbor, where seaplanes landed rhythmically, one after another.

It’s a rare treat to be a visitor in your own region, with nowhere in particular to be.

The Return and a Quiet Harbor

In the late afternoon, we boarded the motor coach again and returned to the harbor to meet the boat. As we turned back north, the pace remained relaxed. A hot dinner—smoked salmon chowder, sourdough bread, and a cookie—was served while Captain Glen guided us toward Eldred Rock.

We slowed near the lighthouse, waving to a small restoration crew mid-stay. Glen shared a few stories from the area, including the haunting history of the Santa Clara, a vessel that sank nearby in the early 1900s.

By the time we arrived back in Haines around 7:30 PM, the harbor was peaceful. Evening light draped the mountains. The fishing boats were still out, and the docks remained quiet.

Why It’s Worth It—Especially for Road Travelers

For travelers towing trailers or RVing the North, this trip offers something that’s often hard to access: a coastal, sea-level view of Alaska’s wild side—whales, lighthouses, sea lions, and working harbors—all without having to coordinate a ferry or flight. It’s a seamless day trip, and everything is handled for you: meals, transit, local insights, and a deep sense of place.

If you're passing through Haines, consider staying a day longer. The Fjord Express isn’t just a tour—it’s a way to dip into the heart of the Inside Passage and still be back with daylight to spare.

If You Go
• Check in by 8:15 AM at the Haines Small Boat Harbor (top of the ramp next to the harbormaster’s office)
• The trip includes a scenic wildlife cruise, continental breakfast, hearty dinner, and four hours of free time in downtown Juneau
• Bring layers—a warm jacket, hat, and something wind- or water-resistant are recommended for spending time on the deck
• Don’t skip the back deck experience—even if just for a while. The best wildlife sightings and fresh air moments often happen outside
• Binoculars and a camera are worth packing if you enjoy spotting eagles, whales, and historic lighthouses
• Book online at alaskafjordlines.com